Skip to content

Hunting Fun

For the love of the hunt!

Archive

Tag: Shotgun
millerusaf asked:


At 200 dollars each, everyone can afford this great, inexpensive home defender.

NGPCnews asked:


Leslie and Aaron Hershberger introduce you to spring turkey hunting by examining the equipment used. They will walk you through shotgun choices, decoys, camo, and blinds.



The Basic Retrieving Dog

What I call the basic retriever or deer dog function, is where a dog is walked at heel or very slightly ahead of the hunter, and is stopped whilst the gun takes the shot.

The dog is then used for the more difficult retrieves or for locating the game, but never for the simple retrieves. The reason for never using a retriever on a simple fetch is that it encourages the dog to charge in for every retrieve.

If you cannot control this, you are then in the situation where the dog is a liability and will lose you game when you come across two rabbits rather than the one. Quite often, when using an air-rifle, you will be able to kill one rabbit of a pair and then the second because the weapon is so quiet.

So the rule is, only send your dog for retrieves across water, in cover, or where a wounded rabbit is running. Retrieving a running rabbit should only be undertaken when a dog is well trained on cold game and real retrieves, and is steady to shot. Under other circumstances you will encourage running in again.

The Squirrel Dog

The second way of using a dog when shooting with an air-rifle, (or rifle or shotgun) is when hunting for squirrels. When pursuing these animals, you will often find that they will keep the trunk of the tree between yourself and them.

In this situation, the breed is immaterial, even a terrier will be sufficient to achieve the desired result. All you need is a dog that will respond to hand signals, and that you can send away from you. The squirrel will then tend to keep the trunk between itself and the dog, and present a straightforward shot. Just remember to stay still whilst the dog is doing its job.

After a while the dogs will get used to hunting in this way. Never send a gundog to retrieve a wounded squirrel, the fact that they bite so hard will ruin the dog’s mouth (ie they will become hard mouthed). If you are using a terrier though, let it run in – you are not training it as a gundog.

Rabbits, Pointers and Air Rifles

The third and last way of using a gundog with an air rifle, and one I particularly like, is to use a pointer to point rabbits in light cover. Ideally suited for the air rifle, as you will disturb very few rabbits and the dog can spot them much better than you can.

By: Ken Devonald

About the Author:
Ken Devonald has been training gundogs on and off for twenty years, currently having two GSPs. The older dog, now twelve years old, is still trying to jump gates when Ken isn’t looking.

He is currently developing a Gundog Training Site, which you can visit at www.gundog-training.com.





Whether you are wingshooting or clay shooting, establishing which type of lead shooter you are will improve your consistency and accuracy. There are three methods of obtaining lead on a moving target. The “swing through” method, the “pull ahead” method, and the “sustained lead” method. All of which have there advantages and disadvantages. Let’s examine the three.

A “swing through” shooter allows the target to pass the barrel of the shotgun and follows the target until just before pulling the trigger accelerates the barrel past the target, generating the lead. When you hear people coaching “follow through” when shooting, this is the method they are teaching. Much like a golfer or a bowler, even after pulling the trigger, the shooter continues his swing until the target breaks(or not).

I am a “swing through” shooter. I do not see lead, as most “swing through” shooters don’t. Of course this is only perceived, as there is a lead on any moving target, especially crossing shots. By following behind the target and then firing as the barrel moves past the target it gives the shooter the perception of shooting directly at the target. I like this fact because trying to maintain a lead for me seems unnatural.

Critics of “swing through” state that this method puts the shooter behind from the beginning and forces the shooter to wait until the last minute to obtain the proper lead. I find it can cause for “riding” a target too long which makes the shot more difficult and puts me out of position for the next shot.

Next, we have the “pull ahead” method. In my opinion, this is very similar to the “swing through” method. The main difference being that with the “pull ahead” method the shooter points the barrel directly at the target and moves with the target until time to shoot, the shooter then “pulls ahead” of the target to obtain lead and fires. Where in the “swing through” method the shooter trails the target.

Many experts believe this helps to solve the most difficult aspects of shotgunning, target speed and direction. By pointing at the target your brain automatically calculates these variables, enabling you to accurately decide the proper lead.

The third method is the “sustained lead” method. Preferred by many target shooters, “sustained lead” matches gun speed with target speed but instead of pointing at the target, the shooter stays in front of the target at all times.

The idea here is the shooter always stays ahead of the target and is in the right positiion longer, giving the shooter a better chance of hitting the target earlier and more consistently. I’ve also heard this type of shotgunnng referred to as “window shooting”. Basically the shooter leads the target to a particular “window” or predetermined spot and fires.

If I had a recommendation for a beginner it would be the “sustained lead” method. This method teaches to obtain the proper lead early and gives the shooter the most control over each shot. Also, when shooting doubles, it allows for early breaks on the first target , leaving ample time to locate and break the second target.

As for me, I’ve been “swinging through” for years and trying to change that would be like trying to make myself right handed, just not going to happen.

Which ever method you prefer, stick to it and be consistent.

By: S P Griffin

About the Author:
Hello, my name is S P Griffin and I’ve recently started a blog about dove hunting, hunting dogs, and shotguns. It’s kind of ironic that the name is Dove, Dogs, and Shotguns isn’t it?

At http://www.dovehunting101.com/ you can find everything from how to articles on hunting, shooting, dog training, to hunting supplies and accessories. Check it out and feel free to leave your comments about the site.





A step by step guide to get you in the field!

Dove Hunting is a great sport for all ages. Whether you are 12 or 50, it can be rewarding. I started at age 17 and haven’t missed an opening day since. As the summer begins, my heart and mind always go to September 1st (opening day North and Central Zones in Texas). Every year my dad, brother and I have a competition, called ‘The Top Gun’, and whoever kills the most birds gets their name on the Top Gun plaque for the year. (Dad wins every year) I’ve started my two oldest sons out and this year they are in the competition too. I’m looking forward to many years of time with them With all that said, if you would like to try it out I have some practical things for you to do to make getting started easy.

Getting started falls into two basic categories:

What to purchase?
What to do?

What to Purchase

I know, you are thinking this is going to be expensive. It can be (if you have the money), if not, you can start out on a shoestring budget, like me. There are many items that make dove hunting more comfortable but they are not necessary to begin hunting. I’ll begin with the bare necessities.

A Shotgun
I don’t think there is any way around this one, unless you are real good with a sling shot. There are many options when it come to a shotgun. The basic categories are; pump action, auto-matic, and over and under. All three have there advantages and disadvantages. The other things involved in purchasing a shotgun are , what gauge and what brand.

A pump action shot gun is the least expensive type of shotgun. Pumps can be purchased for around $300. Winchester and Remington have decent entry level pump shotguns. A pump simply means that the discharging and reloading of shells is done by pumping the gun backwards and then forward. Contrary to popular belief, this can be done very quickly and all have shot a lot of birds with a pump. A pump’s advantages are it is a great starter gun and the cost will keep some money in the bank if you are on a budget.

An automatic shotgun is an upgrade from a pump. An automatic shotgun ejects the spent shell and reloads the chamber automatically (hints why it’s called an automatic). Both the pump and automatic hold three shells(with the plug in). For a beginner and even for me (as I shoot an automatic), the third shot can be a life saver. Automatic shotguns can be pricey though. I shoot a Remington 1170 (left handed ) and it cost around $850. the price range is from $500 and up. I’ve never had any problems with my gun but some critics of them say they over heat and run out of gas if you do an awful amount of shooting. I recommend automatic’s unless you are going to Argentina or something.

Over and Under shotguns are probably the most popular in the target shooting world and a lot of bird hunter use the. They have two barrels one on top of the other. they are know for their accuracy and reliability. Both my brother and my dad shoot them. They are the most expensive starting at around $700 and going up from there. If you’ve got the cash, you can’t go wrong buying one.

Gauges: When buying a shotgun, size does matter. The smaller the number the larger the shell. 12 gauge is the most common and then 20 gauge being the next. Although there a many different gauges all you need to know is the bigger the gauge the more it kicks. Don’t get to excited none of them really hurt unless you shoot 500 then you might be a little sore. I recommend 12 gauge for adult males and 20 ga. for adult women and kids over 13. For youngsters, I recommend .410 gauge.

Brands: I’ve had good luck with Remington and Winchester. Both are low to medium price range. Mossberg also makes entry level shotguns, but my brother had all kinds of problems with his first pump, in a short period of time I might add. Benelli an Beretta are also good brands, but in the medium to high price range.

The bottom line is you have to have a gun, so decide on your budget and make a purchase that will last a life time. Let’s keep a running total….

1-pump-action gun = $300

2. A place to hunt

I’d say this is a necessity. Here again, this depends on your bank account. There are several ways to hunt without paying ant outrageous amount of money. In Texas, they have public land and for around $50 one can access thousands of acres. The trick is finding a spot with birds. There are also day hunts for around $100 per day, and even some leases for around $150 per season (usually these suck). If you’ve got the money, look for some established leases in the newspapers. They can range anywhere from $300 to $1000 per gun. Again, a gun is no good if you don’t have a place to shoot it (preferably with birds on it or flying by).

1-pump shotgun @ $300, 1- public land permit @ $50

3. Hunting license

I don’t think this needs too much elaboration. Depending on your state, should be around $40.

1-pump shotgun @ $300, 1- public land permit @ $50, 1- hunting license @ $40,

4.Accessories:

You can really go crazy here if you want, but there are a few ‘must haves’.

Shells. I could write a novel on this, but to start just buy some 8 shot dove load. Buy a case (10 boxes), should be around $60.
Bird/bullet bag.Probably a three pouch camo, $15.
Chair. Get a comfortable one. They are cheap $30 max.
Camo clothing. Depending on your climate, you’ll need pants and a shirt. The more pockets the better. You might want to buy some boots too. We’ll say $100.
Other accessories you might want to get could be a water bottle (camo, of course), flashlight, hunting vest, a new cooler (to put all your birds you kill in), camo hat, and polarized sunglasses. For now i won’t figure these into cost.
1-pump shotgun @ $300, 1- public land permit @ $50, 1- hunting license @ $40, 1-set of accessories @ $205.

That’s it! The grand total to get you into business is around $600. It sounds like a lot, but if you don’t wait until the last minute you can budget it in over time.

In the next article, I’ll cover what to do to get started dove hunting.

I’ll cover that after I RELOAD!

By: S P Griffin

About the Author:
Hello, my name is S P Griffin and I’ve recently started a blog about dove hunting, hunting dogs, and shotguns. It’s kind of ironic that the name is Dove, Dogs, and Shotguns isn’t it?

At http://www.dovehunting101.com/ you can find everything from how to artices on hunting, shooting, dog training, to hunting supplies and accessories. Check it out and feel free to leave your comments about the site.





What to do?

Okay, you’ve acquired everything you need to begin dove hunting, NOW WHAT!?!?

There isn’t too much to it, but if you take a few steps prior to taking the field, you’ll have a lot more fun and a lot less stress. Let’s begin.

1. Get familiar with your gun.

If this is your first shotgun, it can be kind of intimidating. Just remember, safety, safety, safety. Always make sure your gun is unloaded before doing anything to it. You should take it apart and put it back together, as you will have to do this to clean and oil it. Practice loading and unloading shells. As I like to say, make love to your gun. The last thing you want to do is get out in the field and not know how to work your gun.

2.



A step by step guide to get you in the field!

Dove Hunting is a great sport for all ages. Whether you are 12 or 50, it can be rewarding. I started at age 17 and haven’t missed an opening day since. As the summer begins, my heart and mind always go to September 1st (opening day North and Central Zones in Texas). Every year my dad, brother and I have a competition, called ‘The Top Gun’, and whoever kills the most birds gets their name on the Top Gun plaque for the year. (Dad wins every year) I’ve started my two oldest sons out and this year they are in the competition too. I’m looking forward to many years of time with them With all that said, if you would like to try it out I have some practical things for you to do to make getting started easy.

Getting started falls into two basic categories:

What to purchase?
What to do?

What to Purchase

I know, you are thinking this is going to be expensive. It can be (if you have the money), if not, you can start out on a shoestring budget, like me. There are many items that make dove hunting more comfortable but they are not necessary to begin hunting. I’ll begin with the bare necessities.

A Shotgun
I don’t think there is any way around this one, unless you are real good with a sling shot. There are many options when it come to a shotgun. The basic categories are; pump action, auto-matic, and over and under. All three have there advantages and disadvantages. The other things involved in purchasing a shotgun are , what gauge and what brand.

A pump action shot gun is the least expensive type of shotgun. Pumps can be purchased for around $300. Winchester and Remington have decent entry level pump shotguns. A pump simply means that the discharging and reloading of shells is done by pumping the gun backwards and then forward. Contrary to popular belief, this can be done very quickly and all have shot a lot of birds with a pump. A pump’s advantages are it is a great starter gun and the cost will keep some money in the bank if you are on a budget.

An automatic shotgun is an upgrade from a pump. An automatic shotgun ejects the spent shell and reloads the chamber automatically (hints why it’s called an automatic). Both the pump and automatic hold three shells(with the plug in). For a beginner and even for me (as I shoot an automatic), the third shot can be a life saver. Automatic shotguns can be pricey though. I shoot a Remington 1170 (left handed ) and it cost around $850. the price range is from $500 and up. I’ve never had any problems with my gun but some critics of them say they over heat and run out of gas if you do an awful amount of shooting. I recommend automatic’s unless you are going to Argentina or something.

Over and Under shotguns are probably the most popular in the target shooting world and a lot of bird hunter use the. They have two barrels one on top of the other. they are know for their accuracy and reliability. Both my brother and my dad shoot them. They are the most expensive starting at around $700 and going up from there. If you’ve got the cash, you can’t go wrong buying one.

Gauges: When buying a shotgun, size does matter. The smaller the number the larger the shell. 12 gauge is the most common and then 20 gauge being the next. Although there a many different gauges all you need to know is the bigger the gauge the more it kicks. Don’t get to excited none of them really hurt unless you shoot 500 then you might be a little sore. I recommend 12 gauge for adult males and 20 ga. for adult women and kids over 13. For youngsters, I recommend .410 gauge.

Brands: I’ve had good luck with Remington and Winchester. Both are low to medium price range. Mossberg also makes entry level shotguns, but my brother had all kinds of problems with his first pump, in a short period of time I might add. Benelli an Beretta are also good brands, but in the medium to high price range.

The bottom line is you have to have a gun, so decide on your budget and make a purchase that will last a life time. Let’s keep a running total….

1-pump-action gun = $300

2. A place to hunt

I’d say this is a necessity. Here again, this depends on your bank account. There are several ways to hunt without paying ant outrageous amount of money. In Texas, they have public land and for around $50 one can access thousands of acres. The trick is finding a spot with birds. There are also day hunts for around $100 per day, and even some leases for around $150 per season (usually these suck). If you’ve got the money, look for some established leases in the newspapers. They can range anywhere from $300 to $1000 per gun. Again, a gun is no good if you don’t have a place to shoot it (preferably with birds on it or flying by).

1-pump shotgun @ $300, 1- public land permit @ $50

3. Hunting license

I don’t think this needs too much elaboration. Depending on your state, should be around $40.

1-pump shotgun @ $300, 1- public land permit @ $50, 1- hunting license @ $40,

4.Accessories:

You can really go crazy here if you want, but there are a few ‘must haves’.

Shells. I could write a novel on this, but to start just buy some 8 shot dove load. Buy a case (10 boxes), should be around $60.
Bird/bullet bag.Probably a three pouch camo, $15.
Chair. Get a comfortable one. They are cheap $30 max.
Camo clothing. Depending on your climate, you’ll need pants and a shirt. The more pockets the better. You might want to buy some boots too. We’ll say $100.
Other accessories you might want to get could be a water bottle (camo, of course), flashlight, hunting vest, a new cooler (to put all your birds you kill in), camo hat, and polarized sunglasses. For now i won’t figure these into cost.
1-pump shotgun @ $300, 1- public land permit @ $50, 1- hunting license @ $40, 1-set of accessories @ $205.

That’s it! The grand total to get you into business is around $600. It sounds like a lot, but if you don’t wait until the last minute you can budget it in over time.

In the next article, I’ll cover what to do to get started dove hunting.

I’ll cover that after I RELOAD!

By: S P Griffin

About the Author:
Hello, my name is S P Griffin and I’ve recently started a blog about dove hunting, hunting dogs, and shotguns. It’s kind of ironic that the name is Dove, Dogs, and Shotguns isn’t it?

At http://www.dovehunting101.com/ you can find everything from how to artices on hunting, shooting, dog training, to hunting supplies and accessories. Check it out and feel free to leave your comments about the site.





Who hasn’t done it, shown up for a big dove hunt and put yourself in a bad spot. It is simply miserable to listen to all the blasting around you as you contemplate everything from moving spots to what you did to deserve this. The best bullets, most expensive shotgun, and best trained dog cannot make up for picking a bad spot when dove hunting. Let’s look at how we can prevent singing the ‘no dove blues’.

First we will look at the three basic ways to get a good spot when dove hunting and then we’ll breakdown what to look for when scouting.

Scout the field: If you don’t have a sixth sense like my dad does, then it will pay to do a little scouting before you show up for the hunt. You can learn a lot about the dove in just one afternoon. Pay attention to their flight patterns, the sun, and the time they start to fly. Pick a few spots that look promising, just in case someone beats you to your first choice.

Early bird gets the worm: And the early hunter gets the spot and the birds. It’s really not a good plan to scout out your spot and come driving up too late to get it. Surely, if you’ve picked a decent spot it won’t last long. Whether you are hunting the morning hunt or afternoon, don’t dally, get to the field, take your spot and prepare to be the one making everyone else jealous.

Be still: If your new to dove hunting, then you probably haven’t witnessed a pair of incoming dove break into evasive maneuvers on the slightest movement by you. After a dove has been shot at a couple of times or, as Tim Lilley from Game & Fish calls it, educated, they become very jumpy and will change course on any ground movement. This can be devastating to even the best spot. Expert dove hunter, Will Jester, thinks that being still and keeping your dog still is more important than the fanciest camo you can buy. Sure, you’ll want to wear some camo but if you are jumping up to shoot way to early the camo won’t help.

Those are the basic steps to getting a good spot to hunt. Now let’s look at what actually look for when scouting or looking at a field for the first time.

The sun: Get your bearings and figure out east from west and then position yourself with the sun at your back. The sun can really hinder your ability to spot dove much less shoot dove. If having it at your back is not possible try to face where it is not directly in your eyes.

Structure: Dove structure is basically something other than food or water that attracts birds. These structures effect the dove’s flight patterns in a field. It could be anything from a group of trees to an old barn in the field. These structures will be a staging area for the dove to hold at until they leave to feed or water. Finding a position within range of these structures can make for some prime real estate in the field.

Bare Spots: A bare spot in the field can be a great place to find holding dove. Dove need to have a certain amount of gravel and sand in there diet. Will Jester says, “These areas can be ideal, food on the ground all over the field will obviously scatter and disperse the doves. A hunter sitting near a visible patch of grit will often get a concentration of birds headed for one place that offers more than one of the things they need.” Of course you don’t want to sit in the bare spot, just in shotgun range of the spot.

Watering Holes: Dove usually go to water after they eat. Keep this in mind if your considering setting up near water. If there are many hunters set up where the food is, they will get the first ***** at the dove. Don’t get me wrong there can be some fantastic shoots by water, but if it is a large field with many hunters, I wouldn’t recommend it as your primary spot.

If you take these points into consideration when scouting, or heaven forbid, just showing up to hunt, your chances of a successful hunt will improve greatly.

By: S P Griffin

About the Author:
Hello, my name is S P Griffin and I’ve recently started a blog about dove hunting, hunting dogs, and shotguns. It’s kind of ironic that the name is Dove, Dogs, and Shotguns isn’t it?

At http://www.dovehunting101.com/ you can find everything from how to articles on hunting, shooting, dog training, to hunting supplies and accessories. Send me the reviews of the places you have dove hunted on, good or bad. I’ll post them to the site.





So you want to become part of the time-honored tradition of duck hunting? If you’re seeking to join the ranks of camouflage-clad sportsmen who awake in the middle of the night to go hide in waterside reeds waiting for the perfect shot, you’re going to need to learn a few things first. Remember, not everybody has what it takes to be a duck hunter.

First, do some research. Use all the tools at your fingertips. Look around on the Internet and read some magazines. Ultimately, you need to determine if duck hunting is something you really want to embrace. If the answer is yes, your next step is to get yourself educated. You don’t want to go out into the field with your shiny new shotgun, disrupting others sport and basically being a nuisance. You’re going to need to find a mentor.

A mentor can be the person that first got you interested in duck hunting, someone you meet through connections online, or a fellow hunter from a local hunters association. Your mentor needs to be someone who knows all the ins and outs of duck hunting. This person can show you around, point out some good hunting locations, give you tips, and hopefully take you on hunting trips. In the end, your mentor will be the one to point you in the right direction when it comes to getting started in the field.

After you acquire your basic knowledge of duck hunting, you’re going to need the proper equipment. Everyone will have their own ideas about what works best for them, of course, but to get started it is best that you listen to those in the know. Don’t rely on the clerk at your local sporting goods store; they will more than likely just try to sell you the highest priced equipment possible. Once again, your mentor or other duck hunters would be the best voices to listen to. Consider their recommendations and do some shopping around. After deciding what works best for you, the only way to truly learn is to try it. Your first hunting trip will no doubt involve you finding out what equipment you like and what you don’t.

As you take those first baby steps into duck hunting, you’re going to find out quickly what methods you prefer when it comes to bagging ducks. Some hunters rely heavily on duck calls, and swear by them. There are many different types of duck calls. Some are purchased at stores or through catalogs, some are carved by hand, and others are created by the hunters themselves-with only their vocal chords. Although it will ultimately be up to you to figure out what works best for you, the safest bet is to first start with a duck call purchased at a store or through a catalog. As always, consult with your mentor before making a purchase.

Another popular tool of the duck hunting trade is the duck decoy. Decoys are floating, plastic ducks painted to strongly resemble various species. Ducks, like all other birds, have very keen eyesight and are not easily fooled. It is for this reason that if you are going to use decoys, they need to be very accurate in their detail and need to be placed correctly. As a prey species, ducks will shy away from anything that makes them feel uncomfortable. Before making any decisions about decoys, talk to your mentor. You want to make sure you get the correct species and the most accurate-looking decoys you can. Your mentor can also advise you about placement and how to correctly use your decoys.

All in all, those looking to get into duck hunting are in for a wild ride. Most of us take hunting for granted. After all, how hard can it be to kill a stupid bird? It’s not so easy, as you will find. With a little patience and education, though, you’ll be a master duck hunter in no time. I wish you the best of luck on many duck hunting adventures to come!

By: Joshua McNiel

About the Author:
Visit our website to shop for duck decoys, and antique duck decoys





If you love to go trophy deer hunting and have never had an animal become injured from a less than well placed shot, then you are luckier than most. But even the most skilled hunters will experience this situation at some point during a lifetime. Hunters without good ethics will leave the animal to go off on its own and suffer; whereas ethical and responsible hunters would track the animal down.

Yes, it takes time and effort to track an injured deer while trophy deer hunting. So instead of looking at it like a chore, consider it a challenge which reaps a great reward. Unfortunately, many hunters will track an injured animal for a short period of time, but as soon as it becomes too difficult or takes too long, they give up. The best attitude is that just as you need to put in time and effort necessary to go on a trophy deer hunting trip, tracking an injured animal is a part of the overall process.

Depending on the type and severity of the injury, the deer will likely leave a blood trail that would make tracking easy. However, the more common scenario is that another hunter will shoot a different deer, killing it and while going to retrieve and dress the body, they come across the injured animal.

Now, if you were using a bow for your trophy deer hunting, the animal typically jumps and arches the back when hit. However, if the deer were only injured, it would naturally hunch the body while trying to find a place to hide. On the other hand, if the deer were shot with a rifle or shotgun, a trail of blood mixed with brown/green particles (from the stomach & intestines) would be found in the form of digested and undigested food.

Another important note when trying to find a wounded animal that shot with a rifle or shotgun, generally they run much further than those shot with a bow. In fact, gunshot wounds often become blocked by the intestines so blood trails are not as common. The unfortunate thing about a wounded deer from a rifle or shotgun is that most injuries take a long time to kill the animal, which is even more reason to track it down.

To find a wounded animal, the first place to start would be at the initial point of impact, then head in the direction the animal ran after being hit. Most often, deer will take the easiest path to freedom, so as you make your way in that direction; try to think like a deer. It should be noted that deer will sometimes circle back toward the area where the hit took place.

Sometimes, just walking slowly, 40 yards or so and stopping along the way to listen for sounds will lead you to the animal. Deer want to get away from the area hit as quickly as possible; they are running on adrenaline.

A few other indicators that might help you in finding an injured animal during your trophy deer hunt would be to look for blood that appears frothy. In this case, the animal would have taken a hit to the lungs. If the blood is a deep red, then the liver was hit.

Additionally, when a deer is injured, it will typically choose downhill routes instead of traveling uphill. Finally, realize that death is likely to be very slow. Therefore, the animal will look for a place to bed, which is usually not more than 50 yards from where it was hit.

As an ethical trophy deer hunter you will be dedicated to tracking down a wounded animal. “Fair chase” hunting is the only way to go; being a dedicated, ethical and professional hunter makes you the best trophy deer hunter you can be.

By: Keith Cantelmo

About the Author:
Trophy Deer Hunting Secrets reveals how experts get dramatic results when hunting for trophy whitetails. To learn more about trophy deer hunting visit us at http://www.trophydeerhuntingsecrets.com



Money - Home Based Business  -- Cycling  -- How to Train your Dog  -- Stun Gun Reviews